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Raclette is a cheese that originates in the Swiss and French Alps, made using unpasteurised cows milk.At room temperature it has a reasonably mild flavour but the true magic happens once it's subjected to heat.

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Melted raclette on potatoes We're warned there may be a wait for our raclette, but it arrives within ten minutes.

It's not a huge serving but there's enough to keep you occupied for the entirety of your wine flight.

Char koay teow Is it possible to talk about char koay teow without talking about wok hei?

Wok hei means "breath of wok" and is all about the hungry flame-licking action beneath the wok that imparts a smoky char to its contents.

That's when it's ready to raclette, or scrape, the cheese onto the waiting potatoes.

We also go with the matching wine flight, four half-pours of wines from around Australia.The best bits are tinged golden brown, with a resistance that's satisfying chewy.It's worth hovering near the raclette grills to watch the melty cheese scraping action at least once.Expect about 6-8 chat potatoes, three slices of pancetta, two pickled gherkins and a handful of rocket dressed with balsamic.The raclette is the obvious star of the show, a melty stretchy oozing puddle of cheese with a faint nutty sweetness.That means chunks of green apple, green mango, cucumber and pineapple tossed with fried Chinese bread (yu tiao) in a syrupy sauce made from shrimp paste, sugar and chilli.It may seem like a strange idea to eat shrimp paste with fruit at first, but the sweet, salty, sour and spicy combination is the first thing I turn to when I hit the humidity wall in Malaysia.Don't expect teh tarik, the strong sweet tea that is poured from a great height to create froth.Do look forward to cham - the half tea / half coffee hybrid adored by Malaysians, barley water and calamansi lime with preserved sour plum. They do strong and sweet Malaysian coffees, tea and iced Milos too.Is it just me who finds the slow-motion ooze a little hot under the collar?Golden river of grilled raclette It's mesmerising... Stretchy oozing raclette And if the raclette doesn't warm you up, the wine will.


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